Jonathan Davies Everest 2010

Jonathan Davies Everest 2010
Photographer Paul Donavan

Monday 12 April 2010

Trip to Base camp

Leaving Home
3rd April Leaving ths morning wasn`t as bad as i expected. Beth is a real jewel. At times like this the phrase behind every man is a stronger woman(or words to that effect) couldn`t be more appropriate. She has been so supportive and is my rock.In true Davies style the tears flowed yesterday. I`ve definately inherited my family "tearful" gene and it`s getting worse with age. It`s lovely how Isla just bumbles on. We had a sunggely cuddle at Jane & Rogers which will be treasured for the next 10weeks. The struggle with the technology side of the trip drags on. I got skype set up last night but am meeting Mark from Thales , the sat provider at Heathrow. In some ways it`s worked great as he`ll give me a full run down on how it all works. I`m looking forward to meeting the bulk of the team at Heathrow. If the previous trip is anything to go by they`ll be an interesting bunch, maybe slightly more focused I think. I`m packed, I`ve left, I can feel my mind beginning to clear itself of things I need no longer think about. It`s strange when you have something emotionally huge happening in your life like an everest trip, how life and people just carry on as normal around you. Hopefully I`ll sleep big time on the plane and charge the batteries before we start moving out of Katmandu. A quick trip into Thamel for a carry mat and a water bottle and we`re ready.
Now sat in Heathrow after meerting up with Mark from Thales. The gear is fantastic and seems very easy to set up. Mark`s a regional sales man for Thales which are the UK agent for Imarsat, the owners of the satelites. Excelerate Technology then package the service up with equipment and sell to the likes of the Emergency Services. Mark looks after the middle east and some government depts including part of UNICEF. So far so good, just met two other young guys that are attempting the big one. First impressions seem great, they have the same slightly glazed look that has been all to familiar over the last few weeks.
Katmandu
4th April Arrived in Katmandu after a pretty steady journey. We all went to Rum Doodle for a bite to eat and it was then you realise how big the group is. One thing that has surprised me is how young the group are. I thought mainly middle aged men but I would say the majority are 20s and 30s. The hotel is very comfortable and a nice to think we are coming back to after what I hope will be a successful Everest attempt. The Tibetan visas were filled in after there was suspisions that the Chinese weren`t going to open the border and we would be stuck in Katmandu indefinately. Time for some kippy kippy now.
Oxygen Set up
5 April After a great nights sleep and a buffet breaky it was time to discuss plans. . After Stuarts` talk on kit, ex Flight Lieutenant Ted Atkins, multiple Everest summiteeer, came to talk through the Top 0ut oxygen set we will be using high on Everest. After his first Everest exped in 1988 he began thinking how the breathing system could be improved. After leading his own successful Everest exped in 2004 he left the forces and now lives in France, coming to Nepal for the Everest season providing a number of thre teams with equipment. This is a open flow system, a bit similar to the Dreager equipment we use within the Fire Service. The silicone mask creates a seal around over your mouth and nose and as you can see on the picture you have a resvoir bottle. When you breaththe air is forced into your lungs due to the pressure difference between the surrounding air and the oxygen from the cylinder. Each breath we take is split into 3 part. The first part which is the important lung filling part, the second part fills the pipe work down to your lungs and the third part which is the excelation. Due to the pressure difference between the cylinder/resevoir and the surrounding atmosphere the first part of each breath draws oxygen out of of the resevoir.The second part is then a mixture of surrounding air and oxygen as the pressure equals out. The only problem that can affect the system is icing up. The differnet potential issues can be sorted quite easily. I think being familiar with the equipment at work is a bouns and that feeling of having a mask over your face, which some people will find strange.
This afternoon involved a trip into Thamel, the tourist area of Katmandu. A trip to Shorneas` outdoor shop for some last minute bits. This is owned by a Brummie who married a Nepalese lady and has climbed big hills all his life. Him and his wife now have their own equipment manufactured. All the Western guide companies use him for kit. Kenton Cool (7 times Everest sumiteer) came in as we were leaving. He`s on the South side this year, 8 on the bounce!!
We are leaving for the boarder tommorow, regardless of whether it`s open or not. So going off to get a pre base camp bag together. The rest of our equipment we`ll meet up there in a week or so time.
Picture Dsc 0023
Road Trip into Tibet
6th April Today consisted of a bumpie,dusty bus journey accross the boarder into Tibet. This has to be one of the weirdest borader crossings. You get the impression that the boarder with Nepal is of very little interest to the Chinese. The expedtitions crossing are of even less interest. The freindship bridge spans a steep sided ravine that is overlooked by Zhangmu, the first town in Tibet. This is at an alltitude of 2300m. The drive to the borader began with the chaos of Katmandu with its` traffic and dust. Once out of the city the 100km drive became quite pleasent, apart from the odd rough section caused by landslides. Once the paperwork was complete we were lined up in the correct order and one by one the Chinese boarder gaurds let us cross the bridge. Once on the Tibetan side we passed through the chinses control with very little problem. The locals`who were carrying all the equipment, were not tret with the same respect. For some reason they were in a real rush for them to get through the control to such a degree, that at times, they were jammed in the double doors and had to be physically dragged apart. The bags with the laptops etc were identified before leaving Katmandu due to the £2500 tax placed on each item. The bags were rushed over with the equipment hidden under less interesting gear. We drove upto Zhangmu where we stayed the night.
Nylam
7th April The drive up to Nylam was interesting. The road is blasted into the hillside and to begin with was very rough with a huge drop on one side. After passing the sheated camps that house the people building the road we begin driving on the finished road. It was a fantastic road and a real feet of engineering.. It reminded of the monte Carlo rally. At 3700m Nylam is a fairly hostile place. The residents are hammered by the elements, the wind rips through and the sun beats down, their skin is like leather and they seem to spend there time indoors hiding. Stray dogs and Yaks scavenging on the main street is a weird sight. The colourful trucks that transport the supplies into base camp are fantastic. Along with the women and their dresses,theyt brighten up this baron scene. We`ve walked upto 4000m which was reasonably ok. I felt the alltitude a little bit this morning and took it real easy on the walk. I feel we`ve come up to this height quite quickly so I am concious to take everything slowly. After dinner went to email home, got the text written and the picture attached before the power went off and the whole thing lost. The Chinese do not let access to blog sights hence the delay in me updating. To be honest the real storey begins on sunday with our arrival at Base camp.Pic RIMG0022

8th April Slept real badly last night. Had a bad case of washing machine mind. From midnight until gone 3 my mind worked over time. The fact that I had a bit of a headache didn`t help. After forcing down what I could at breakfast we went out for a walk. Once you start to gain some height the surrounding hill/mountains are impressive. The lower slopes are quite barron and dry with prayer flags hung between every possible upright. We walked up a ridge above the town. We had been told not to take pictures of the town due to the military base thats is here. The walk was quite tough and I took it easy. I felt the alltitude without a doubt. It wasn`t my breathing, it was more my muscles.It took us up to a position with great views of the mountains around. The group got strung out before gathering back togerther ready for the descent. There are 18 Everest clients and 6 who are going as far as the North col. The group is made up of a broad range of people. There is a few who have quit there jobs, a few who are at different stages of the 7 summits on 7continents challenge. One impressive pair are Americans Don and Stuart, father and son who are hoping to climb Everest leaving only Mt Vincent to do. Don is 63 and has just become and grandfather for the first time. They have completed 5 climbs year on year, both summitting although Don does say he`s always chasing his son. They are already disscussung next years plan for Mt Vincent and the completion of the 7 summits challenge. We also have ex England and Wasps rugby player Josh Lucy on the trip. When announcing his retirement from rugby last year, when asked what was next he replied Everest. Before this interview he had already contacted his buddy Keith, a helicopter pilot in the army, telling him what the plan was. Keith agreed and there publicity machine began. They are planning a live link with the rugby game going on at Twikenham of St Georges`day. This game is in aid of Help for Heros and the idea behind it is to try and fill the 80,000 stadium for the game. Josh will then appear on the big screens with a message from Everest telling the cowd and everybody at watching to text Everest to a certain number and donate to the charity. They have a similar communication set up to the one Excelerate Technology and Thales have put together for me. I was very grateful to Mark from Thales who went through the setting up of the equipment with me at Heathrow before my flight. I am sharing with a young guy called Geordie. He is attempting to become the youngest Brit to complete the Seven summits. His plan, if successful on Everest is to go out to Carstensz pyramid in Papoa New Guinea in September followed by Mt Vincent in Antarctica in December. If successful he will the ripe old age of 21. To give him credit he has funded the trips personally and has sponsorship for this one. The other first on the North side this year involves a THIRTEEN year old and his adventure racing dad from the states. They are planning an attempt involving a very low level of support above advanced base camp. Apparently in the US the press have been following him with mixed reports. They are on the north side due to the age limit of 15 imposed by the Nepalese on the south side. Pic RMG0001 RMG0031

Across the Tibetan Plateau to Tingri
9th April The drive up to Tingri is pretty special. The road was tarmaced for the Olympics in 2008. Before then this 3hr journey would take nearer 6. It winds its way upto the high point of 5100m before dropping back down to 4300m. We got our first sight of Everest. It is still some 60km away but it looks huge, with the wind wipping the cloud over the summit it still feels quite unbelieveable that that is our goal. Tingri is the last stop before base camp so all the teams are here. Tingri is a real hole . The hygene is a real problem in places like this.There are a number if the team suffering with there stomachs. The toilets are really primative and the way the food is perpared does not fill you with confidence. There is a huge number of people involved in the different expeditions. I have been talking to some guys who are hoping to be the first summiteers from Montanegro. They were here last year but due to wind and bad organisation they didn`t summit. I spoke to the Beth & Isla this morning which was really nice. The sat phone worked a treat. There are two other guys in a similar position as myself, with a little one back at home.It gives me rerassurance that when it gets tough there peolpe around who will understand.

Getting higher
10th April Got up after a reasonable nights sleep. Suffering a little bit with my stomach and struggling to get the food in. We went out on walk straight after breakfast, gaining approx 600m to just under 5000m. I felt good and sert off at a pace I maintained all the way to the top. Stuart the American, followed me up the last 250m drag and we worked well together, who knows he might be the person i summit with!! Rob, the guide for the North Col party has not surfaced for three days and it`s becoming a bit of a concern for the clients. We have three doctors with us one of which is Barry who is a real English gent. I keep overhearing him disscussing Robs`condition with the others docs, and comparing the various different drugs they`vè brought with them. The latest plan is for some of the group to stay back another day, before going upto base camp. There is a height gain of approx 900m between Tingri and base camp. This will have an effect on even the fittest members of the team. The trade off once at BC is the food and hygene will be a lot better.The decision will be made by Stu & Mat (the guides), in the morning as to whether anybody will stay back. Everest is approx 70kms away as the crow flies yet still looks huge. The bus journey tommorow will take past the Rongbuck monastery with fantastic views of Everest beyond. I feel like this is the start of the next stage and to get close to Everest will be incredible. I think tommorow could be the day the reason why I`m here actually sinks in!

Upto Base Camp
11th April Everybody woke up well enough to travel upto base camp. I think nobody wanted to stay in Tingri any longer than they needed to. The bus journey began with yet another random Chinese check point. I think this was the point we entered the Everest National park. The road was rough but considering where it`s going it`s well enginered. It wound up the hill side, to a high point of 5100m. We stopped the bus as this is an incredible view point. Four of the worlds 8000m peaks were in view. Everest was in the middle clear as day. The road wound down and passed through a couple of villages. The occupants rely purely on farming for there hand to mouth existance. Everest kept on appearing between the hills. The road was real rough and at one point we had to stop and pick up the wing mirror that fell off due to the constant bumping. We stopped at the famous Rongbuk Monastry, with Everest looming over in the background. I spun the prey wheels and looked up at the summit. I asked for a fulfilling attempt and a safe return.Once up at base camp we got our tents organised and settled in. They are brand new tents, I spent some time placing rocks arouund the base of my tent to keep the constant wind out. I did a bit of a sort out but guessed we are going to have enough time to get the tent looking tidy.The food is great. We walked into the mess tent to find all the food you could imagine. Even though we have come up to 5200m our appitites seem much stronger due to the western food. I`m feeling pretty good. I`ve got a bit of a headache but my breathing is good. We`re not getting a bgan signal due to the hills around. The only way is to walk up the hillside so the the bgan can pick up the satelites. Unfortunately Mat, a young Royal Marine has not been well for last few days but decided to come upto base camp yesterday. Just hope he get`s sorted.

10 comments:

  1. Hi J,

    I didn't know you had so many words in you! Fantastic reading - very vivid. Just waiting for the next instalment now...

    Sarah
    x

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  2. Hi Darling! Sounds like you've had an amazing adventure already and you've only juts hit basecamp! Really interesting to hear about the other people on the trip but would love to see some pics. Did ou try posting any? Also did you find Glug and Pants' message for you at Rum Doodles? Isla fed a baby lamb a bottle of milk today then had supper and bath time with Big Isla and Isy. Needless to say she's in 7th heaven! Your mum and dad are coming to stay for a couple of nights as Chris is busy lambing and can't have Isla so I have a long list of man jobs for your dad! Can't wait to spk to you again. Love Bee x

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  3. J:

    Following your every move as best I can on Google earth - our very best wishes from the US.

    You have quite a crowd following your exploits on my linkedin and facebook page.

    Mike and the clan

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  4. Excellent commentary JD, keep it coming, there might be a book in you!!

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  5. Greetings from the gang; cosiy ensconsed at sub base camp. The situtaion in the mess tent has significantly improved with the arrival of Delia Davies! Sprirts were heartily cheered when the corrective maintenace engineer landed in camp. Engineer Davies attended to expedition leader Davies knobs with his large drill so base camp is now fully operational and looking much more cosy. The biggest threat of the expedition (comfort spending) has snowballed and garden funriture has been purchased (it was engineer Davies fault-he made me!) Love from the gang. Stay safe and k.i.t (that from you know who) Rodger doger rubber duck. Over and out xxxx

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  6. Did you feel the earthquake that was NE of you - it was perhaps 500 miles I guess - plenty of space out there, I guess?

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  7. Wonderful reading - so excited to discover tonight you have a blog! Sitting in our little cottage by the sea in Portugal and thinking of you up 5200m on your windy mountain. Sending you all the positive thoughts and wishes in the world. Looking up at you C and F x x x

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  8. Hello old boy, sounds like you are enjoying yourself and you have got a good group with you. Please do not trip the 13 year old up if he is beating you! Take care mate we are all keeping upto date on this bolg. Mike & Nads

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  9. now bud enjoyed catching up. nearly 2 weeks already you will be back in no time. all the best Joe & Sue

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  10. WOW!!! I was wondering when you were off on your adventure! Awesome reading - they say everyone has a book in them?! Wishing you an amazing time, and safe travels! Was great to catch up in Jan, and hope to see you, Beth and Isla when you get back and hear all about it! Take care of yourself and take lots of photos!!! Sam :)

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