The North Col
1st May Once everybody had packed what they needed for this trip, they looked at the size of their load and wondered how on earth we were going to make it up to 7100m. I woke feeling good and although it was tough work was quietly confident. Once onto the glacier and up to the head wall, I clipped to the first fixed line and started up.AlthoughIi was working hard I felt my progress was steady. The biggest thing to contend with was the sun blazing into my back. I drink both water bottles before the top and found the last, and most challenging part exhausting. The route swung to the side of the serac fall, which was massive. The blocks of ice, some of which were shed size, were laid as if they had never moved. Looking up you could see the fresh blue face where it once hung. The route was not as direct, which took longer but with the packs I guess it didn`t really matter. I spent the last hoiur or so following my Montnegran friend. He was faster that I, but took more breaks so we kept acknowledging one another. He came to the final cravase ladder and I took a picture of him crossing, which considering how wrecked he looked before hand definately helped his perfomance. Its a testing experience crossing deep blue cravase on your crampons, walking on a ladder that looks like it would be rejected by any window cleaner worth his salt! I take my time and position my front crampon points on the run of the ladder, this way they can`t slip anywhere. You look down which means you are looking into the cravase. Anyway thankfully, unlike the South side of Everest with the Kumbu icefall, we don`t have many of these kinds of things to contend with. Once I had got over the cravase and up the final akward section I was met by a mass of tents. It was like a mini version of the lower camps. They were all perched behind a huge wall of ice that protects the camp from some of the winds. Our camp was next door to Jordon and his family, the 13yr old American. They seem really nice people and Jordan a very balanced young guy. I am sharing a tent with Simon who has a lot of experience when it comes to trips like this. He completed a race to the North Pole as well as several mountain trips. I got into a tent and got the stove lit and began the continuous process of boiling water. Melting the snow takes ages at this height so just filling a water botttle will take 30mins. Once the rest of the group arrived we got settled into the tents. Tonight was the most restless night I have ever endured. I couldn`t sleep, every time my breathing began to slow down I would gasp for air. I struggled to get any food down and to cap it all off my thermorest must have a hole as it quickly went flat. I put my down suit under my sleeping bag to keep my back warm. The wind was very strong and at times would sound like it was going to damage the tent. We had surrounded the tent with a bank of snow which stopped the wind getting under the canvase. I watched the time tick by all night. The snow gatherewd on the tent and finally, once the sun came up the melt water began dripping off the roof and soaked everything. This was real discomfort which until now I had only had a mild dose of. This was the real thing.

Up to 7500m
2nd May The weather was wild so the plan was to make as much progress up the North ridge as poss. We were not going to get our 7500m goal. Simon and I began the water boiling and tried to eat anything we could. I set off and soon realised I was really strugggling. I had no energy, and every step was real effort. The wind on the ridge, once out from the protection of the camp was wild. It was not only strong but bitterly cold. I had my down suit on and fleece underneath. I was to warm which was not helping. I struggled up to maybe 150m before turning round. There is a section just before camp that requires a bit of concentration. I found this really hard and took my time. Once I got back to the camp I was exhausted. Simon got the stove on and I got my kit off which is a battle in itself. Once back in the tent that was it for the rest of the day. The weather was supposed to be better tommorow so we would have another go. I was strruggling to eat anything and thought tommorows trip would be much the sameas todays.

The North Col and Beyond
3rd May I had another horrid night and couldn`t eat anything. I worked out i`d managed to consume about 1000 calories in the last 24hrs. I expected to feel like i did yesterday. The weather is a lot better so dressed accordingly. I set off and felt great, it was still windy on the ridge so I stuck my down jacket on. The ridge gradually rises up. The view from here is amazing, you can see the summit high above you and the surrounding ranges are incredible. As I went higher my hands began to get a little cold. I decided to turn round at with altimeter reading 7450m. This was due to a little bit of concern about my fingers. I flew down the fixed lines back to camp. Once i stopped I knew I my fingers were cold. I began to gently warm them with hand warmers and Ian, a great guy on the trip gave me his big mits. The key was to keep them warm and get down to ABC. Two of my fingers were a bit white at the end, but with in an hour i had pain and feeling in back to them. This was a relief as it means at least there is no lasting damage. This means I have to be a little more careful when I`m high next time as I must keep them warm. Along with handwarmers I have down filled mitts which will keep me warm. I got down the North col, with the help of Ian. The weather was pretty bad and the constant snowing made for white out. I was pretty tired by the time I reached ABC. Stu already knew about my fingers so he had a look and we decided on the treament. The main thing is not to let them get really cold, so gloves are the ordeer of the day .

Back to BC
4th May Had a good nights sleep at ABC and after a bit of breakfast I set off with Josh. We had a steady walk down and passed the time talking about a wide range of subjects. He`s a top guy and very interesting to talk to. We dicussed everything from the trip itself to what makes a top sports person to parenting skillls to house prices on Hyde Park corner in London. The 5 1/2 hours seemed to pass pretty quick and we were in resonable shape when we arrived, unlike the previous jouirney back which was exhausting. The majority of the group were walking down today one or two were resting following o tommorow. Heather, Pete and Mat, the Marines and mat the guide were going up to the North col. They had not yet slept up there so were a trip behind. As we walked down Everst was engulfed in cloud and snow was falling art our level so we were pretty sure they were will be having a tough time of it. We found out lateer that they had 6" of snow and there was more forecast. Comunication is very important on a trip like this. Along with base radios at BC and ABC we all have hand held radios. We have organised radio calls at a certain time just so we know where peolpe are. This doesn`t always happen for whatever reason and a couple of times we have been concerned for the safety of one of the group. Back down at BC life is fairly easy. 5200m now feels the like hopme. If you exert yourself you still feel it , but normal living is fine. We are eating whatever we can get in, knowin how we all feel hiugher up. It`s exciting thinking next we set off it will be fopr the final time and our summit bid begins.